Whilst on a website, two white thobes may sound the exact same way, but feel completely different once they arrive. One hangs up like a coaster and remains crisp after 20 washes. The other one lets sunlight pass through and its collar has begun to curl by the time of Ramadan. Then what makes a thobe high quality? Whether you are putting on a new thobe for the first time or the tenth, it's a matter of a few details you can check on your own.
What makes a thobe high quality? Start with the fabric
The quality of the fabric is essential to how comfortable, durable and much more a new thobe will feel.
Always follow the label instructions. This skin-friendly material has high air permeability, and it's suitable in summer for those who run hot. Will easily fold and can also shrink when heated in water. Gulf tailors use polyester and poly-cotton blends in many thobes for these reasons. The flip side to breathability is that a thin, inexpensive polyester may make your clothes feel clammy during a hot day.
Then place the fabric beside a window. A decent white thobe shouldn't reveal the hand behind it. Keep in mind that your undershirt will be visible if you can see your hand.
Fabric weight is important, but not necessarily a contributing factor. Think light fabrics, summer and hot-country vacations. A mid-weight thobe with a winter djellaba will keep you warmer than a single heavy layer for a British winter.
Look Closely at the Stitching
-
Look at the seams by turning the thobe over, as this is where the shoddi stitching will appear.
-
Make sure that seams are straight and small, tight, even stitches.
-
It is important to select a stitch count that is around 10 to 12 stitches per inch to ensure a good finish and tidy stitch size.
-
Remember not to sew too long or too loose; they are not as durable.
-
The raw edges of raw fabrics should be overlocked or folded so that they don't fray while the fabric is washed.
-
Notice the most critical stress points:
-
Side pockets
-
Chest opening
-
Slits at the hem
-
Ensure that they are reinforced with more stitching, because they are the most strained ones during the observance of salah while sitting, kneeling, and standing.
Keep in mind that it will be super easy to trim off a stray thread, but puckered seams, mismatched stitches, and gaps will not be easy to repair.
Inspect the collar, cuffs, and closures.
This is one of the first things people see and it is one of the first pieces to break down. A proper collar will have a sturdiness to it on the inside which will stand up after washing. Cheaper thobes tend to glue in that layer, which can bubble or loosen after a few washes. Bend the collar gently, and it should bounce back without creases.
Collar styles vary by region. A stiff, upright Saudi collar sits neatly under a ghutra keffiyeh, while Emirati and Omani styles are usually collarless with a tassel at the neck. Some shoppers search for these as Saudi kanduras, though kandura is the Emirati name, so check which cut you’re actually buying.
Buttons, press studs and zips should all be firmly fixed. Hidden button strips and zips give a cleaner front and stop anything catching. Al-Haq’s Signature Defined thobes, for example, close with a hidden zip. For cuffed styles, ensure there is uniform cuff and buttonhole width.
Make sure it fits properly
If thobe is not cut properly, even the best-made one will look cheap. Thobes typically come out to a length measurement first. The hem should be slightly above the ankle line and should not touch the ground. Seams should be right against the shoulder; sleeves should stop at the wrist when arms are relaxed.
Then test it in movement. Raise your arms, sit down, and go into sujood. A good cut leaves room across your back and under your arms. If the fabric pulls tight when you bow, choose a looser fit or the next size up. Al-Haq’s Signature range, for example, comes in Regular and Large fits across sizes 52 to 62. Test it on with the kufi you usually wear to the masjid, to look at both the kufi and the garment together.
Mistakes to Avoid
-
Defining quality based on price alone: Quality is not necessarily related to price as branding can contribute greatly to the price.
-
Don't assume transparency: Always look through a white thobe before purchasing.
-
Getting the size wrong: Do not use chest width as a guideline. Look at length to see if the hem touches the floor.
-
Hot washes: Do not use hot water to wash, as it causes the cotton to shrink.
-
Ironing on high heat on polyester: This may cause a permanent luster on the polyester.
Final thoughts
Then what makes a thobe high quality? For a decent good thobe, the fundamentals are met. The fabric must be opaque and comfortable, the seams properly made and finished, and the collar must be firm without being tight or uncomfortable, and yet be sufficiently made to move correctly while kneeling. Check those things and the price tag matters much less. Once you’ve found the right thobe, finish the look with an Egyptian banded kufi for Jumu’ah, or something from our Yemeni shemagh shop.